China in Tokyo

I am not actively looking for the weird association of the ancient and the (no so much) modern, but the combination keeps coming in full view these days. Today in Tokyo, in the area of Shiba-Koen, that is, Shiba park, I took a few minutes before a work errand walking inside the Zojoji temple where I had not set foot for years despite brief glimpses from a taxi window many times.

A good in my eyes temple is Buddhist, red and a little bit decrepit. This one, or at least part of it, fairly fits the bill.

A good in my eyes temple is a reminder these days of a film I remember having seen a few times as a child on French TV. A film, possibly American, for kids. where the only thing I can remember is two children, a brother and a sister in pajamas on bed, and the bed for some reasons I forgot ends up in the middle of the open space in front of a Chinese temple, with the kids startled at what is happening. I also remember a monkey like character with a particular habit of spitting balls out of its mouth or ears like a magician.

Among the conventional and usual conversation starters one goes through here is the question about what triggered ones coming in Japan and learning the language. Among the set of possible answers I keep in my mental wallet is a cover page of Air France in-flight magazine about Japan with a doll like Japanese girl picture. Japan is a female that lured me in.

But before Japan clarified in the mind, it was part of an imaginary mic-mac called Asia, where bits of China, Vietnam, and Japan where messily but happily living together. Karate practiced a few years on the trail of the Bruce Lee craze was an early sign of longing to elsewhere. Elsewhere can happen when crossing the street. My elsewhere was Asia with a heavy slant at China.

But when thinking more deeply about all this, it appears that Japan started with China which was all the same, bundled in the same bag of fantastic and mystery. And this film seen on TV is probably the most early visual representation of elsewhere, a film I would love to find a reference about today. China was elsewhere. It turned to be Japan when subjectivity meddled in the picture. For China, that is, the China of red temples with a court where a bed carrying two startled kids clad in pajamas sort of landed is the true real and inaccessible dreamland.


"One never thinks of China, but it is there all the time on the tips of your fingers and it makes your nose itchy; and long afterwards, when you have forgotten almost what a firecracker smells like, you wake up one day with gold leaf choking you and the broken pieces punk waft back their pungent odor and the bright red wrappers give you the nostalgia for a people and a soil you have never known, but which is in your blood, mysteriously there in your blood, like the sense of time and space, a fugitive, constant value to which you turn more and more as you get old, which you try to seize with your mind, but ineffectually, because in everything Chinese there is wisdom and mystery and you can never grasp it with two hands or with your mind but you must let it rub off, let it stick to your fingers, let it slowly infiltrate your veins"." "Tropic of Cancer" (Henry Miller)